Kuwaiti Connie

After more than a year of planning David Evans, Don Hill, Mike Greig and Greg Boyce gathered at the Brisbane International Terminal.

It was Friday evening 16th November 2018, Qantas’ 98th birthday and the mission was to retrieve parts from the former VH-EAB Super Constellation “Southern Horizon”. It was a night flight to Dubai followed by an early morning connection to Kuwait City where we arrived around 8:30 on Saturday morning. This aircraft, or its remains, lay abandoned in the Kuwaiti desert at the Amhed Al Jabar airbase.

The job on paper looked simple enough.

Drive out to Amhed Al Jabar on Sunday. Meet with the base commander. Go to the wreck site and cut off the bits we thought we wanted. Return on Monday with a truck and haul the bits to another airbase Ali Al Salem where an RAAF C-130 Hercules would airlift the parts to Al Minhad near Dubai. We’d then fly back to Dubai on Emirates and pick up the parts from Al Minhad and truck them to Dubai International Airport. Here we’d load them aboard our freshly painted A380 VH-OQD “Fergus McMaster” . S/O Mark Cameron would join us and Don, Mike and myself would ferry the OLD Roo inside the NEW Roo back to Sydney.  Simple. What could possibly go wrong?

I might point out that EAB “Southern Horizon”, although a wreck in the desert for more than 30yrs, had withstood many attempts from various groups from Australia to return her home.  She wasn’t going to give herself up easily.

Day 1; Sunday 18th November.

The first whiff of trouble came via email from Eleanor Hale - second secretary to the Australian Ambassador in Kuwait - about a week before. Eleanor has been marvellous in arranging various clearances and equipment hire to facilitate our mission. The email advised us that there was a potential the base would be closed on Sunday as it may be declared a public holiday to celebrate the birth of the Prophet Mohammed.

That would scupper our plans as we needed a full day on site then another day to get to Ali Al Salem to meet the RAAF. 

Undaunted we sallied forth and departed anyway. The first of many quotable quotes was coined by Don at that moment. “We’ll burn that bridge when we get to it”. After settling in to our salubrious accomodation in Kuwait City, we met Eleanor and her driver/translator Amir, who had very kindly picked up our equipment from the hire company. Namely two generators, extension leads, three angle grinders along with a large quantity of spare cutting wheels and “Oxy” cutting gear. Eleanor also gave us the good news that due to a one in one hundred year rain event over the previous week, the Prophet’s birthday would not be celebrated tomorrow. 

Rain event in the desert, sand drains pretty quickly, no problem. Well, it does in Australia!

Next morning after a quick breakfast the convoy departed for Amhed Al Jabar Airbase. At this point the convoy consisted of the Australian Embassy bulletproof Land Cruiser, Eleanor in her small compact and us in our hired Ford Explorer. The drive was a mere 40 kms out of town and we expected it to take less than an hour. 

As that first hour came and went we found ourselves in heavy traffic and the first of the Police Cordoned road blocks. These were put in place as many of the direct highways out of Kuwait City were closed due to flooding! It’s a desert!

It became necessary to back track and skirt around the city to a potential alternate route. Sadly after approximately another hour we met the second police road block. 

Now out of options the very resourceful Eleanor contacted the base commander who provided an armed military escort to lead us around the troubles via back roads. Time to breakout the tea and bickies while we waited for our escort. 

Finally, the now four vehicle convoy set off for the remainder of our journey to the Connie where we did arrive around 10am some three hours after departing the city.

As protocol and middle eastern tradition dictate we were all received warmly by the Commander Colonel Fahad Alkhurainej. The reception was in his large office adored with typical military memorabilia, model fighting aircraft and framed photos of presumably past high ranking top brass. Also in attendance were what appeared to be the entire officer establishment of the base. All seemed to know about our quest and keen to assist where possible. This was the first hint of the powerful back story of this aircraft and how its recovery ignited the imagination of all. 

Sadly the Colonel advised that due to our late arrival the breakfast he’d arranged had to be cancelled but some food and refreshments would be sent to us around lunch time. He did insist on one piece of safety advice. “WHEN you get bitten by either a snake or scorpion go straight to the CLINIC”. Your escort will now show you the Clinic.

Don presented the Colonel and his entourage with some more memorabilia as gifts including a model of a Qantas A380. We then set off for the wreck site, via the CLINIC.

Over the past year or so Don and I have been pouring over old and new photos of the wreck site, but that doesn’t prepare you for your first physical encounter. Knowing the remarkable history of this old Qantas aircraft combined with all that preparation doesn’t prepare you for a slight sense of melancholy and awe as you step onto the site for the first time.

Our time is now limited as we had to be off the site by 4pm. Brushing aside all emotions a quick site survey followed. This included a “dynamic risk assessment” for potential dangers. The team then swung into action identifying the pieces we’d remove.

I had brought along a drone to take some aerial photos and video of the site. I didn’t realise it was smarter than me as it recognised we were inside an airbase so refused to fly.

First target was the right tip tank. Duly separated from the wing after about an hour of angle grinding and oxy torching. It became apparent that the gas was not Acetylene but probably Propane (cooking gas). The cutting torch wasn’t giving sufficient heat to cut through main spars and thicker plumbing.

Consequently it became necessary to open up large areas in the structure to allow angle grinder access. Not how true “Aviation Archaeologists” should behave around such an historic relic. However time pressure and the fact it’s probably the last visit this aircraft will have before its lost forever to the desert I think justified our brutal attack.

Large vertical fin was the next prize. As it was the only surviving piece of the tri-tail so deemed appropriate to take. The Lockheed manual stated it weighed 200lbs (100kg). After quite a struggle and use of straps and old tyres to offer support and protection for the cutting crew it became apparent it weighed considerably more than 100kg. As it happened it weighed in at 770lbs (350KG) but that story later.

While Greg, Don and myself busied ourselves with these major pieces Mike set about investigating the less obvious pieces. He literally stumbled on the main access door and a large upper “cobra” engine cowl. All buried deep in the sand. A simple task to dig up, you’d expect, as it’s just sand. Well the actions of that 100year rain event meant the sand had turned to the consistency of mud. 

Seniority was the order of the day and Mike as the most junior (also the youngest and most fit), the shovel was handed to him.  Our Embassy representatives in Eleanor and Amir also joined the treasure hunt. Our tax dollars at work. The bulletproof Land Cruiser was put to good use, coupled with my Fraser Island snatch strap to drag all sorts of goodies out of the sand. Eleanor, under the direction of Boycey, busied herself removing injectors and magnetos from some of the engines. 

“Righty tighty, Lefty loosey” I believe was the only instruction. Amazingly this aircraft hadn’t flown for more than 40 years but some fuel residue was still found in some injectors.

Other items retrieved were various inspection hatches, the remains of the rudder pedals assembly and a large window hatch.

Time was now called by the Kuwait escort (I think they’d had enough of us) so tools gathered and stowed aboard the embassy vehicle and we headed back to Kuwait City and hot showers and dinner. No beer.

Happy to report no snakes and only two scorpions. CLINIC not required.

Day 2; Monday 19th November.

Armed with the knowledge of road closures the team set forth much earlier.

This was going to be a big day. The task was to gather the salvaged parts at Amhed Al Jabar, load them on the rented truck, transport them the 50 odd kms to Ali Al Salem air base, transfer the load to the RAAF and if all goes according to plan have them safely airborne around 5pm.

Well of course it’s never that simple. We had an idea of the road conditions to Ahmed Al Jabar by now but the route between there and Ali Al Salem was still a mystery.

Again Eleanor’s organisational skills came to the fore as the truck made its rendezvous on time and at the correct road crossing. Somewhere around the bustling metropolis of “Camel Hangers”.

The three vehicle convoy, Embassy Cruiser, Ford Explorer and truck complete with Pakistani driver rumbled into the airbase bright and early around 7am.

The race was on as we set ourselves a dead line of 11am to be on the road. By now we had started discussing our success of actually getting the parts home to Australia in terms of a “confidence meter”. The scale was 1-10 where 1 being “not very confident” and 10 “very confident”. At the start of day 2 the meter sat just above 7.

Before loading commenced a few last minute items were targeted. To achieve these targets we split into teams. Greg and myself set about cleaving a section of stabiliser leading edge. Don and Mike cut out a section of fuselage complete with windows. Eleanor and Amir continue removing spark plugs, injectors and any data plates. Once achieved the loading commenced starting with the vertical fin. 

Our truck driver - more used to loading robust solid loads - started out somewhat cavalier and rough. Even though these parts will never grace the skies fitted to an actual aircraft again we wanted to preserve as much of the desert patina and minimise any further damage during transit. It was like dealing with 100kg+ coke cans. Amir helped by translating our needs and re-slinging the big loads several times until loaded safely. Last minute scramble to box the small items then tie down the load on the truck and right on 11am (10:58 actually) we were on our way to Ali Al Salem.

As the road conditions between bases were unknown, the Kuwaiti Airforce put on another escort to lead us through the sealed but sandy desert roads. Our “confidence meter” was edging higher towards an 8 until Eleanor received word that the Australian Embassy influence could only go so far.

We “would be on our own” at the USAF controlled Ali Al Salem. 

The meter started heading south!

At the entrance to Ali Al Salem we were met by two Australian Military officers assigned to help us through the security process. Peter Coates (Army) and Sean Malone (RAAF) were great help and the first check point was transited without any problem. However the machine guns pointing in our general direction through slits in the pill box windows were a little unnerving. 

The second check point loomed and initially seemed fine with smiling faces all round until it became apparent our truck driver from Pakistan didn’t have the required “truck pass”. Over the previous two days Lt Col Peter Coates had worked tirelessly to facilitate our arrival at Ali Al Salem but no one had mentioned the said “truck pass”. We were directed to a holding area while Peter escorted our truck driver off to places unknown to gain the necessary clearance. 

While this was in progress Sean casually mentioned the RAAF Herc was currently grounded due to a landing incident earlier in the day. What! Oh, and during this hour or so it was realised a third occupant was sitting in the Australian Military vehicle. A mysterious individual who became affectionately known as the “bear”. That’s a whole other story.

After what seemed an eternity Peter and our driver reappeared with good news and bad. The good news was the driver is cleared to enter the base with his truck, the bad is we as civilians now have to go through the same screening process. 

Time was ticking away and the RAAF C-130 now serviceable had a new wheels-up time of 18:00 to keep the crew within “hours”. The clock showed after 2pm.

Our “confidence meter” had not yet bottomed out.

Eventually we were all issued “passes” but as the driver I also had to get a “blue” pass to enter the base. 

It’s now after 3pm and the sun has disappeared behind very threatening clouds and the temperature is dropping.

Finally it seemed we would reach our goal with one final hurdle. All vehicles were directed into a fenced off “blast proof” area. We were directed out of the vehicles and herded into yet another waiting area, complete with a very used chemical loo, while the vehicles were thoroughly searched.

This took forever with some mixed signals of success when a US officer of some description started to challenge our legitimacy for even being here. At almost that exact moment the “all clear” was heard from the vehicle screening area. 

We promptly climbed aboard our vehicles and drove off to the third and final check point. The US officer seemed gob-smacked but that was the last we saw of him. By now it had started to rain with the rumblings of distant thunder. 

When approaching the final check point and in stark contrast to the previous check point we were waived straight through. Happy Days with our “Confidence Meter” now soaring well into the 8 we rumbled onto the flight line and loading area to be met by a group of Australian Army Aircraft loaders.

It was inspiring to watch these professionals swing into action. Pallets had been prepared and our treasured parts were now being secured for loading aboard the C-130. All parts were weighed with most coming in close to our estimates with the notable exception of the tail fin. It weighed in at a staggering 770lbs (350kg). Again the Connie “Southern Horizon’s” back story seemed to lift our loading team to new highs. 

Sadly however the large tail fin was determined to be just too large to fit onboard. Not without trying all options the tail fin had to stay for now. It was repositioned to a storage area with promises that the RAAF would get it next time.

As the last of the daylight turned to night that distant thunder and lightning had now arrived. The final stage of loading was done in torrential rain complete with crackling thunder and lightning. That didn’t matter as the Connie Parts (minus the fin) were now safely aboard an Australian RAAF C-130 and about to be airborne for the UAE and Al Minhad in Dubai.

With collective sighs and a great sense of achievement we considered the hard part now done. As I attempted to start the hire car the battery had gone flat! A foreboding omen, or was it the last of our hurdles for the day? 

We got the car started and headed back to Kuwait City and entered the high speed melee of crazy drivers heading into town on rain soaked traffic congested roads. After what seemed like hours we made it back to the sanctuary of our hotel and the prospect hot showers and a meal.  

Day 3; Tuesday 20th November.

With our “confidence meter” well into the green zone, the four of us met for a leisurely breakfast and to plan our next move.

Sadly, as the flight from Dubai is a non revenue ferry flight, passengers are not permitted. Greg Boyce would now have to leave the team and head home to Australia on an afternoon Etihad flight. Don, Mike and myself would climb aboard an Emirates flight for Dubai around the same time.

Hotel bills paid, we loaded our gear one final time aboard the rental car (which, by the way, started first go), and headed for the airport. Rental car keys returned, and after final goodbyes we found ourselves in Dubai without any drama.

A nice hotel close to the airport was secured and Don, Mike and myself settled in to what we thought would be the easy part of the recovery.

Day 4; Wednesday 21st November.

The day dawned with a vision of R&R to plan our next move.

That plan consisted of how exactly we’d get the parts from Al Minhad to Dubai Airport, a mere 30klms away and three days to do it. Simple? The bureaucratic battle that was about to follow meant those first few days in Kuwait actually retrieving the parts was the easy task.

Don had arranged a time window of 0900-1100 on Thursday to pickup from Al Minhad and that was not negotiable it seemed. It then transpired we needed a freight forwarder to consign and pack the parts at Dubai before DNATA could then clear the items for loading on board. 

The whole day seemed to be consumed with this conundrum with no real solution in sight.

Our “Confidence Meter” started to turn south again.

Day 5; Thursday 22nd November.

With our window of 0900-1100 fast approaching the time had come to take matters into our own hands and “direct” the freight forwarding company to send a truck to Al Minhad. This was agreed so I went to “Google” to find a suitable hire car. Sadly in my rush to book a car I omitted to notice that it was a very small SUV. Mike quite unkindly commented “honey you’ve shrunk the car”.

Rendezvous with the civilian truck in the car park of Al Minhad air base and the very orderly transfer from the Military truck quickly accomplished. Things now looking up and the “Confidence Meter” doing another u-turn until we hit the Dubai International Airport and the next hurdle.

It appears DNATA has no system in place, now that Qantas no longer operates out of Dubai, to accept air freight on our behalf. Also the packing of the Connie Parts by the RAAF does not meet civilian standards and would need to be re-packed.

Our window of opportunity was narrowing as Friday is the start of the weekend in the UAE. The freight forwarder had just the afternoon now to do the re-pack. The last thing we needed was our treasured parts stuck in a warehouse probably within 100m of our aircraft because everyone had knocked off for the weekend.

With the parts dropped off at the freight forwarder it seemed our fate was now in their hands. We’re now on the Qantas pattern so time to check out of our airport hotel and check in at the company crew hotel.

That evening over a few refreshments we met up with Dylan Thorpe, our local engineer in charge of the A380 repaint. He filled us in on Saturday’s routine.

Day 6; Friday 23rd November.

Word had been received the parts had been re-packed and consigned to DNATA . The tireless efforts of Ben Prior of Qantas Freight back in Australia paved a way for DNATA to accept our parts. They would then deliver them to our A380 around 2 hours before departure the next day.

Somehow things became lost in translation as the crate created to hold the tip tank was enormous and too large to fit into an A380 freight deck. I think the freight forwarder thought we were a cargo aircraft!

A rough plan was hatched to un-pack the tip tank on the tarmac and manually load it into the hold. This needed to be carefully orchestrated as our primary role now was to deliver VH-OQD “Fergus McMaster” to Sydney on time as soon after our arrival it would be pressed immediately back into revenue service.

After any repaint of an aircraft careful inspection is required to ensure all ports and probes are clear of masking tape and paint. As well as the interior cabin properly secured as it had been in a hanger for more than two weeks.

Day 7; Saturday 24th November.

The big day to ferry the freshly painted VH-OQD “Fergus McMaster” back to Sydney with our VH-EAB “Southern Horizon” parts onboard has arrived.

A relatively minor issue with the transport ordered from the crew hotel to the airport. It was not big enough for the ferry crew of 6 and our luggage. As time was critical we managed to squeeze ourselves and the suitcases onboard. Nursing a couple of suitcases in the process. Another “dynamic risk assessment”.

Three hours before departure we arrived at the Emirates counter to be escorted through the maze of security to board a tarmac crew bus to our A380 located on the freight apron at gate E19.

Quite a long drive around the airport perimeter to the freight side and arrived at the precision timing slot of ETD-2hrs. Mike and Mark the two S/Os detailed to complete the extra walk around and exterior inspection, the two cabin crew assigned to check and secure the interior cabin, Don assigned to unpack and load our freight while I started the pre-flight in the flight deck.

The unpacking and loading started to become problematic as time was ticking away and no sign of the tip tank any closer to loading.  However telling the DNATA loading crew our terrific back story of the Connie “Southern Horizon”, again as always, sparked their enthusiasm and doubling their efforts. 

As right on time at ETD-45 all cargo securely on board, the forward cargo door began its slow closing. At our scheduled departure time, airways and push back clearance received, it was time to take one final look at our “confidence meter”.

Consider the following:

It’s 06:15 UTC (10:15 Local Time) on Saturday 24th November 2018.

VH-OQD “Fergus McMaster” on runway 12R at Dubai International Airport with parts from VH-EAB “Southern Horizon” secured in it’s cargo hold. 

Using call sign Qantas 6012, I begin advancing the thrust levers for our takeoff sequence.

The freshly painted Qantas Airbus A380 starts to accelerate down the runway, finally pointing its nose skyward.

Considering the above facts I think you’d agree the meter, like our aircraft’s nose, was soaring well above 9.

The next 13 hours and 42 minutes went by uneventfully. 

Day 8; Sunday 25th November.  

As the early morning dawned over the famous harbour city we commenced our descent and approach into Sydney’s Kingsford Smith airport. As a nice touch Sydney ATC, who had been briefed on the Connie backstory, changed our call sign to “Southern Horizon”.  Transferring to the tower on final approach “Southern Horizon Super” was cleared to land. 

After an absence of over 55 years VH-EAB “Southern Horizon”, if not the whole aircraft then the whole of her spirit had returned.

Job done!